Friday, June 22, 2012

Grower Champagne: Step Outside of the Big Houses


View of the Côtes des Blancs


When most people think of Champagne they think of the big names: Veuve Cliquot, Moët & Chandon, Mumm, Bollinger and many others.  These are the prominent houses of Champagne who primarily source their grapes from many growers throughout the Champagne region.  The small growers who provide the big houses with grapes not only make their own Champagnes but they make Champagnes that are comparable to some of the big names, in many cases for a fraction of the price.  These Champagnes are called “Grower Champagnes”.

While the big houses produce some noteworthy champagnes, grower Champagnes tend to be more terroir driven, reflecting the place where the grapes are from, perhaps a little more subdued, yet still refined. In contrast, the big Champagne houses are more focused on making consistent wines vintage after vintage. 

Grower champagnes are easily identified by looking closely at Champagne labels.  At the bottom of a Champagne label you can find 2 letters followed by a set of numbers.  Look for the “RM” (Récoltant-Manipulant), which is an indication that the Champagne is a grower Champagne.
  
Grower Champagne has gained some traction over the past few years in the US market, and it’s worth checking out.  While the big houses are spending millions in marketing, the growers depend on their importers and distributors to taut their wines, which leads to a more affordable and accessible Champagne.

There are around 5,000 growers who produce wines from their own grapes in Champagne, some of which is imported into the U.S. Try Grower Champagne at the Barrel Room. We have Bereche et Fils Brut Reserve, Guy Brunot 1er Cru Grand Reserve Brut, Paul Déthune Grand Cru Brut and André Robert Grand Cru ‘Le Mesnil’.  All are fantastic and affordable Champagnes made by families of grape growers, not corporations. 

In the cellar of André Robert. Le Mesnil sur Oger, Champagne


Cheers!
- Carolyn

3 comments:

  1. Really interesting. I'll have to try a glass / bottle when i'm in SF next week. THanks Carolyn!

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  2. Hello, I am very glad to read the compliments about our champagne... Thank you! We hope to visit you some day. Best regards, Nathalie Brunot

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    1. Your Champagne is delicious! You are welcome any time :)

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