Obscure Varietals of Savoie

I have recently tried some amazing wines from the small French Alpine region, Savoie. The wines from Savoie are consumed locally, so they’re not always easy to find outside of Savoie.  Luckily in the Bay Area we have great importers who have brought some Savoie wines to us. 

Aerial shot of where the Rhône meets Lake Geneva

Much of the terrain is too rocky and mountainous for viticulture but the wine produced here is really special.  Surprisingly the steep vineyards enjoy lots of sun exposure and great ripening, to produce not only light mineral driven wines but medium bodied floral whites and bright spicy reds. The Rhône river flows through the Savoie region from Lake Geneva towards the better known grape growing Rhône River Valley. 

Primarily a white grape growing region, the Savoie is home to some obscure varietals. Jacquère is the most commonly planted variety in Savoie with very high yields. Jacquère has high acidity and sometimes herbaceous and grassy aromas. Jacquère is best consumed young, when it shows a lively citrus palate. Its parentage links back to Gouais Blanc, making it a relative of Chardonnay. 

Altesse is unique to Savoie, it is referred to on wine labels as "Roussette de Savoie." Altesse has a floral and fruity character, combining richness and a mineral freshness, typical of many of the Savoie whites. Many of the best can be aged for years.

Most notably obscure is Grignet, which makes some unique and very aromatic sparkling wines in the Ayze subregion of Savoie. 

Other white wines grown in Savoie include: Roussanne, (better known in the Rhône Valley), Pinot Gris, and there is also some Chardonnay grown here. Chasselas is grown on Lake Geneva, across from its native Switzerland. The white wines of Savoie pair fantastically with lake trout, light shellfish and a variety of cheeses, especially Reblochon, a creamy cow’s milk cheese from Savoie. 

Mondeuse on the vine

Mondeuse is the oldest and most notable of the red varietals grown in Savoie.   Mondeuse produces a powerfully flavored, high acid, juicy, peppery reds.  The Barrel Room has a fantastic Mondeuse by the bottle at the moment: 2010 Jean Vullien Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte.

A very rare varietal found in Savoie is Persan, which was thought to be extinct because of it’s sensitivity to a mildew called odium.  However there are a few parcels of Persan still in existence. If you do come across some Persan, (which is more likely in Savoie) grab a bottle!  Persane makes a very unique wine which is meant to age for as many as 15-20 years.

Other red varietals grown here are Pinot Noir and Gamay imported from Burgundy and Beaujolais.     

The obscure and interesting wines of Savoie are worth exploring, they not only produce unique wines, but memorable wines that leave me wanting more!  As wines from Savoie and other lesser known regions become more readily available in the US, I find myself always looking for new and exciting wine regions to explore (and hopefully travel to myself!).

Santé!

-Carolyn