Turkish Wine: The Newest Old-World Wines on the Market

 

“They make wine in Turkey?!” people often say incredulously after glancing at our by-the-glass wine list and seeing Yakut, a red Turkish wine from the Elaziğ province. And we take the opportunity to mention that not only is wine made in Turkey, it is actually home to some of the oldest winemaking cultures on the planet. Turkish wines have received some attention recently and we expect them to get a lot more in the very near future. But the story of Turkish wines is unfamiliar to most, and the grapes are entirely unrecognizable, so these wonderful wines have quite a hurdle to overcome. If you’d like to get to know Turkish wines better, hopefully this post will help you get started.

First, a little history…

a Hittite relief showing the predominance of grapes in Anatolia

 

Wine production in Turkey dates back millennia… in fact, the first traces of viticulture in Anatolia appear 7,000 years ago. This region is the supposed location of the vineyard planted by Noah after the biblical flood had receded. The Hattis and the Hittites, also of biblical reference, thrived here and used wine as a ritual libation to please the gods. They even declared a holiday every year dedicated to celebration of the wine grape harvest. The Hittites’ successors, the Phrygians, introduced wines and winemaking techniques to Greece and by the 6^th century BC wines were being exported as far as Western Europe. Some say the legend of Dionysus (aka Bacchus, god of vine and wine) parading half-naked with wine goblet in hand and drunken masses in tow is a metaphor for the spread of wine from Anatolia through Thrace and into the rest of the ancient Greek empire.

Grapes native to Anatolia soon became prevalent throughout Europe including one extremely influential grape known as Misket, later to become the Muscat grape in France, Moscato in Italy, and Moscatel in Spain, among other names. A local variety grown in what is Izmir today was the fruit of Pramnios, the wine of Homer’s Iliad. Scybelites, a wine from Central Anatolia, was repeatedly praised by Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger.  

Winemaking has flourished in Turkey despite the spread of Islam throughout the centuries; non-Muslims typically produced the wines, and both Muslims and non-Muslims consumed it. The second half of the 19^th century saw wine production reach very high levels. The havoc wreaked by phylloxera in Europe led to massive demands for exported wine from Turkey, boosting technology and introducing winemakers to the international palate. Today the wine industry in Turkey is thriving and interest from the international wine community has been piqued, as can be seen by the appearance of Turkish wines in retail shops and on restaurant bottle lists, and numerous posts by wine bloggers trying to dispel the notion that these wines are just novelties.

Quite a few Turkish wines are now imported and available to consumers. So how does one know where to begin when choosing a Turkish wine? This quick lesson on Turkish grapes (and a very necessary pronunciation guide!) should help a little…

Here are the most common grapes you will encounter (which, thankfully, are typically written on the labels of Turkish wines):  

Emir (eh-meer): translation = “lord” or “ruler”

Native to Cappadocia. This grape produces a deliciously crisp citrusy white with a nice touch of salinity. Perfect for almost any seafood, especially oysters and mussels. It is also sometimes used in production of sparkling wines.

Narince (nah-rin-jeh): translation = “delicate”

Native to Tokat, where the Black Sea climate and continental climate meet. Ageworthy whites are made from Narince. Citrus and stone fruits dominate, along with elegant floral notes. The best of these can be matured in oak and will develop a Burgundian creaminess over time. Some excellent pairings include Gouda, mushroom risotto, rich fish dishes with white wine and herb sauces, and goat cheese based dishes for the unoaked versions.  

Sultaniye (sool-tah-nee-yeh): no translation

Grown around Izmir and Denizli, this seedless grape makes wines light in texture that are pleasant, fruity, and spicy.  Kayra makes “köpüklü” (bubbly Sultaniye) that has a hint of mulberry. The still wines are great with falafel or hummus, or with light salads.

Kalecik Karası (kah-le-jic car-ah-se): no translation

Could be native to the region around Ankara. This is Turkey’s most popular red wine grape at the moment. Previously almost extinct, the grape was revived by French and Turkish viticulturists working together. Kalecik Karası makes a structured, light-bodied wine with notes of herbs, red fruits, and chocolate reminiscent of Pinot. Some producers use oak, but this wine is also an excellent candidate for unoaked treatment. Great with grilled meats, lamb kabob, or roasted chicken.

Öküzgözü (oh-cooz-goe-zu): translation = “ox eye”

Native to the Elaziğ province near the Tigris River in Southeastern Turkey. Öküzgözü makes a well-balanced wine loaded with ripe raspberry and cherry, and is often blended with Boğazkere. This wine can age 10+ years. Excellent food wine… you can pair it with almost anything!

Boğazkere (boe-ahz-keh-reh): translation = “burning throat”

Native to the Diyarbakir province in the Mesopotamian flatland between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. It has a very dark, red garnet color and intense aromas of dried red fruits and spices. It is often combined with the softer, lighter Öküzgözü grape. Pairs nicely with grilled meats, steaks, and pasta with meat sauce.

Now you are fully equipped to get out there and try some Turkish wines. Come to The Barrel Room for a glass of Kavaklidere Yakut, a deliciously bright and easy-drinking blend of Öküzgözü and Boğazkere.

Cheers, or should I say Şerefe (shair-ef-ay)!

- Sarah

Some unpronounceable alternatives to Chardonnay

Quick, name the three most popular red grape varieties you can think of. And now three white grapes. Did you say Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot? How about Riesling, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc? Chances are you thought of at least a few of those, and for good reason. Historically considered to be the "noble varieties," these grapes (which happen to be mostly native to France) are now designated as members of the more PC "classic variety" group, so as not to hurt the feelings of grapes hailing from other regions. These grapes have achieved international acclaim by producing high-quality wines in diverse and varied growing regions throughout the world. 

The ubiquitousness of grapes like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc seems to be both cause and effect for their success in the English-speaking marketplace. Consumers are used to seeing and drinking those wines, so if they don't see a producer they recognize, they buy them for consistency. It's sort of like going to Starbucks when you are in an unfamiliar town and you're not sure where to get a good cup of coffee--you know Starbucks might not be anything special, but at least it won't be offensive. On the other side of the coin, producers continue to make wine from these grapes because they know it will sell--in large part because the general public feels comfortable pronouncing the word "Chardonnay."

Despite the potential embarrassment saved on a date or at a business dinner by ordering a bottle that is dictionally safe, wine drinkers may be missing out by avoiding choices with seemingly unpronounceable names. Indigenous grapes from wine regions throughout the world frequently produce wines that are not only enjoyable to drink, but also enlightening about the culture, cuisine, and terroir of the area in which they are grown. Furthermore, to the benefit of the adventurous imbiber, these wines are often seriously affordable, since most people are too afraid to ask for them. 

Upon opening a wine list, many eyes immediately gravitate to unknown items like Cserszegi Fűszeres [CHAIR-say-ghy Foo-seh-resh] from Hungary, or Öküzgözü [OH-cooz-GOE-zue] from Turkey. But when it comes time to order, a familiar glass of Zinfandel or Merlot ends up on the table. Those wines are enjoyable enough, but an attempt to verbally navigate the umlauts on the page could lead to something much more exciting, like the aforementioned Cserszegi Fűszeres, a crisp and delightful dry white with floral and spicy aromas not dissimilar to a Gewürztraminer, or easy-to-drink red Öküzgözü  from Turkey (blended with only-slightly-more-pronouncable Boğazkere [bow-AAHZ-keh-reh]), marked by soft fruity and floral aromas and Beaujolais-like character. 

Even some of the less-obscure grape names are tough on those whose French or Spanish education stopped after fulfillment of their high school language requirement. It practically takes a bachelor's degree in French to sound out "Mourvèdre" [moo-VEDR] or "Viognier" [VEE-ohn-yay], while Iberian grapes like Albariño [AL-bah-REEN-yo] and Tempranillo [temp-rah-NEE-yo] that look innocent enough can be a source of utter bemusement to those unfamiliar with the basic rules of Spanish pronunciation. 

At The Barrel Room, we support any and all endeavors related to drinking wines made from unpronounceable grapes and are happy to help. We've also learned that a glass or two of said wine can greatly improve your pronunciation abilities (it's true: science!). And while all three of us love learning new languages, none of us has yet become proficient in Croatian, Slovenian, or Greek, so often we too are working on our pronunciation. One tool we have found very helpful is the website forvo.com, which provides audio pronunciation of words in any language by native speakers. Not every wine grape is listed on the site, but you can always try googling individual grapes for assistance with the really obscure ones. 

The strangest-sounding grapes are often some of our favorites, like our bright and floral Clos Alivu Patrimonio rosé from Corsica made from a blend of Sciacarellu [Shak-a-rello] and Niellucciu [NEE-el-OO-chiu] or the sour cherry-flavored Gentilini from Greece, an impressively earthy blend of Agiorgitiko [eye-YOR-yih-tih-ko] and Syrah. If you step outside your comfort zone and order a wine with an unfamiliar name, you are likely to be pleasantly surprised. Even if it's not your favorite wine you have ever tasted, there's a good chance it will be different from anything you have tried before. And if you want to just point to the wine on the menu rather than try to sound it out, we will totally understand.

Anthony Dias Blue

On a slightly-related note, I recently had the opportunity to chat with Anthony Dias Blue on his James Beard-award-winning radio show, Blue Lifestyle. If you would like to hear me attempt to pronounce "Öküzgözü," or just hear what I have to say about The Barrel Room, you can listen to the interview here. I start around 33:10.

-Nikki