Santa Cruz Mountians, part 2: Tasting through one of California's oldest AVAs

Before visiting the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, I did a bit of research on the history and terrain of the region. In my post from last Friday I discussed the qualities that make this AVA unique, including high elevation and marine influences. But I had no idea just how high up these vineyards were until I drove through them myself.

A view from Ridge Vineyards' Cabernet vineyard near the tasting room

The Santa Cruz Mountain wines are entirely distinct from almost all other California wines I have tasted. Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot produce structured wines with excellent acidity and more reserved fruit here. Pinot Noir can be made into an earthy, spicy wine while still showing off California fruit. Zinfandel (what little is grown up at these remarkably high altitudes) expresses a character more like its Croatian counterpart Crljenak Kaštelanski: bright acidity, cherry and plum fruit, and peppery spice; very little jamminess or raisiny qualities are displayed, unlike the Zinfandels from Napa, Sonoma, or Lodi. And Chardonnay is represented beautifully, with those from the Montebello ridge giving some of the most Burgundian examples I’ve tasted in California.

vineyards on the limestone of Montebello ridge

The geology of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA speaks volumes about the wines made here. The mountain range was formed largely due to the San Andreas Fault’s westward bend. The base rocks are granitic (called the Salinian Block) and are overlain by layers of Tertiary sandstone and, in some places, Franciscan Calera limestone. The famous Montebello ridge is composed of large amounts of this fractured limestone covered by a very thin topsoil, giving an almost Burgundian soil for winegrowing. The sandstones found elsewhere in the AVA give perfectly balanced soils for high quality grapes. The altitude and coastal influence here combined with these soil types lead to very long and slow ripening seasons, perfect for complex, earthy wine production.

Vinocruz, an excellent place to try Santa Cruz Mountain wines in the heart of Santa Cruz

The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is definitely worth visiting. The wineries offer a passport program a few times a year during which many wineries typically closed to the public open their doors. Some wine shops allow tastings for those who can’t make it to the area during this program. My favorite spot for tasting wines was Vinocruz in the city of Santa Cruz which sells only wines from Santa Cruz Mountain wineries. Ryan Bond, the proprietor, is incredibly knowledgeable about Santa Cruz Mountains wines from large and small producers alike. 

Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard at his restaurant, Le Cigare Volant

While in the area it is also worth visiting some of the producers from Bonny Doon and Santa Clara. I had a great time visiting and tasting with Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm’s philosophy, which he described thusly: “find grapes that are undervalued, misunderstood, and unappreciated, and add value to them!” led him to make quite surprising Northern Rhône style Syrahs and Bandol-inspired Mourvedres that are very ageworthy. His restaurant Le Cigare Volant offers a great place to try the wines and have a culinary experience complete with a touch of molecular gastronomy.

Here are the wines that I found interesting. I have included some from outside the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA that were particularly delicious.

2010 Ridge Vineyards Estate Chardonnay, $40 retail in the winery tasting room

Produced from Chardonnay grown on the Montebello limestone ridge and fermented and aged in mostly old American oak. Crisp green apple and mango on the nose with a slight hint of butter and a very long finish. Excellent acidity. This wine reminded me of a Saint Romain I tried the night before. Definitely worth purchasing and aging… this wine will develop incredible character after a few years or more in the bottle.

2009 Ridge Vineyards Estate Merlot, $40 retail in the winery tasting room

Again made from Montebello ridge-grown fruit. Very structured and balanced, with soft tannins. Cocoa and plum spice with a medium finish; I liked this Merlot for its brightness and acidity.

2003 Bonny Doon DEWN Mourvedre, $24 retail in the tasting room

After tasting the 2011 Mourvedre from the barrel, with its very herbal wet hay aromas and significant tannins, it was quite a pleasure to experience the 2003 version. Caramel, hints of coffee and chocolate. Beautiful rounded tannins and a leathery mouthfeel. I loved this one.

2011 Bonny Doon ‘Le Pousseur’ Syrah, not yet released

Tasted from the barrel. A truly Rhône-style Syrah, comparable to a Crozes-Hermitage or St-Joseph. Dry, spicy, and herbal, with briary blackberry fruit and characteristic white pepper. I can’t wait for this wine to become available!

2009 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards ‘Luchessi Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon, ~$28 retail

This Cabernet exhibited the roasted green bell pepper, black fruit, and herbal qualities of a Loire Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. I loved the backbone and precision, and the fact that the fruit took a back seat to the earthy, forest floor focus. 

2009 Quinta Cruz ‘Bokisch Vineyard’ Graciano, $24 from the tasting room

Ok, this one isn’t from anywhere near the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, but it is produced by Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards. This Graciano comes from the Clements Hills appellation in the southeastern part of the larger Lodi AVA. It is worth seeking out… very aromatic, with wet baked strawberries and green peppercorns on the nose, perfect acidity, and a long finish. Graciano is a grape that does very well in hot climates like Lodi. I can’t wait to pour this by the glass at The Barrel Room! 

2005 Vidovich Cabernet Sauvignon, ~$30 retail

Some earthy wet clay aromas, with herbal strawberries and roasted pork. This wine is deliciously unique. It is actually a blend of 10% Merlot and 90% Cabernet.

2009 Odonata Malbec, ~$25 retail

From the assistant winemaker at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards comes this rich, chocolaty Malbec loaded with violets and spice. A great example of a big Malbec that maintains its balance and acidity.

NV Equinox Brut, ~$40 in the tasting room

Actually a 2001 vintage, but made in a NV style. This is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir all from the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. Creamy, rich, with a complex hint of tar that makes it all the more interesting and delicious.

If you need any advice on Santa Cruz Mountain wines, feel free to stop by The Barrel Room for more information and suggestions. Cheers!

- Sarah

Rediscovering one of California's oldest AVAs: Santa Cruz Mountains

When California wines are the subject of conversation, most people envision the big, bold Bordeaux blends of the Napa Valley AVA or the intense cherry-cranberry Pinot Noirs of the Sonoma and Russian River AVAs. Nikki recently showcased a region that defies these stereotypes: AndersonValley. Thanks to its cool climate and heavy marine influence, the area produces crisp white and earthy red wines that we at The Barrel Room love. 

However, Anderson Valley is not the only coastal fog-laden viticultural area focusing on structured wines with precision and elegance in California. Residing just a stone’s throw away from the high-tech haven of Silicon Valley, the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is a little-known region that roughly follows the fog line along the coast. Its boundaries are well defined by elevations of 400 feet on the west side and 800 feet on the east side, and Half Moon Bay and Mount Madonna respectively at the north and south. This AVA boasts vineyards at elevations up to 3,200 feet… some of the highest vineyards in the state of California.

Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard

Microclimates are of utmost importance in the Santa Cruz Mountains. On the Pacific side the elevations are lower and the climates are cooler, and Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the varietals of interest. Zinfandel, Merlot, and Cabernet are grown in the warmer areas but tend to produce more restrained wines than their Napa counterparts. The cooling fog and massive temperature deviations from morning to night maintain acidity and freshness in the grapes and finished wines.

Rhys Vineyard's "Horseshoe Vineyard"

This region has long been recognized for its potential for fine wines. Some of California’s earliest wineries were established in the Santa Cruz Mountains, with wine production dating back to the mid 1800's. Franciscan missionaries planted the Mission grape in 1804 just north of the city of Santa Cruz. By the late 1800’s the Chaine d’Or (a mountain ridge stretching from Woodside to Los Gatos) was said to produce the finest wines in America. The grapes grown here always commanded high prices due to their superior quality, and still do to this day. 

1976 Judgment of Paris and 2006 reenactment results

 

Though a huge forest fire in 1889 and Prohibition in the 1930’s stifled the area’s winemaking, innovative winemakers throughout the years like Martin Ray of Mount Eden, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, and both previous winemaker Paul Draper and current winemaker Eric Baugher of Ridge Vineyards have been ushering the region out of the shadows. Ridge Vineyards was among the few California wineries chosen to participate in the famous Judgment of Paris in 1976; Ridge’s 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet placed 5^th among all reds, beating out the 1971 Leoville-las-Cases and placing just below the 1970 Haut Brion. In a 2006 reenactment the Ridge Monte Bello placed 1st overall.

                    

Given this area’s potential for first-class wine production, it may come as a surprise that it isn’t better known. But as appreciation for cool-climate restrained wines grows, this region will soon shine again as one of California’s best. You can try examples of Santa Cruz Mountain AVA wines that we’re currently pouring at The Barrel Room: Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard’s 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (dark berries, sturdy but velvety tannins, very well balanced) and Zayante’s 2008 Zinfandel (bright cherry and spice, great acidity, strawberry fruit leather). 

This weekend I’ll be taking a trip through the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. Join me next Wednesday as I discuss the wineries I visit and the best of the wines I encounter!

-          - Sarah