Turkish Wine: The Newest Old-World Wines on the Market

 

“They make wine in Turkey?!” people often say incredulously after glancing at our by-the-glass wine list and seeing Yakut, a red Turkish wine from the Elaziğ province. And we take the opportunity to mention that not only is wine made in Turkey, it is actually home to some of the oldest winemaking cultures on the planet. Turkish wines have received some attention recently and we expect them to get a lot more in the very near future. But the story of Turkish wines is unfamiliar to most, and the grapes are entirely unrecognizable, so these wonderful wines have quite a hurdle to overcome. If you’d like to get to know Turkish wines better, hopefully this post will help you get started.

First, a little history…

a Hittite relief showing the predominance of grapes in Anatolia

 

Wine production in Turkey dates back millennia… in fact, the first traces of viticulture in Anatolia appear 7,000 years ago. This region is the supposed location of the vineyard planted by Noah after the biblical flood had receded. The Hattis and the Hittites, also of biblical reference, thrived here and used wine as a ritual libation to please the gods. They even declared a holiday every year dedicated to celebration of the wine grape harvest. The Hittites’ successors, the Phrygians, introduced wines and winemaking techniques to Greece and by the 6^th century BC wines were being exported as far as Western Europe. Some say the legend of Dionysus (aka Bacchus, god of vine and wine) parading half-naked with wine goblet in hand and drunken masses in tow is a metaphor for the spread of wine from Anatolia through Thrace and into the rest of the ancient Greek empire.

Grapes native to Anatolia soon became prevalent throughout Europe including one extremely influential grape known as Misket, later to become the Muscat grape in France, Moscato in Italy, and Moscatel in Spain, among other names. A local variety grown in what is Izmir today was the fruit of Pramnios, the wine of Homer’s Iliad. Scybelites, a wine from Central Anatolia, was repeatedly praised by Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger.  

Winemaking has flourished in Turkey despite the spread of Islam throughout the centuries; non-Muslims typically produced the wines, and both Muslims and non-Muslims consumed it. The second half of the 19^th century saw wine production reach very high levels. The havoc wreaked by phylloxera in Europe led to massive demands for exported wine from Turkey, boosting technology and introducing winemakers to the international palate. Today the wine industry in Turkey is thriving and interest from the international wine community has been piqued, as can be seen by the appearance of Turkish wines in retail shops and on restaurant bottle lists, and numerous posts by wine bloggers trying to dispel the notion that these wines are just novelties.

Quite a few Turkish wines are now imported and available to consumers. So how does one know where to begin when choosing a Turkish wine? This quick lesson on Turkish grapes (and a very necessary pronunciation guide!) should help a little…

Here are the most common grapes you will encounter (which, thankfully, are typically written on the labels of Turkish wines):  

Emir (eh-meer): translation = “lord” or “ruler”

Native to Cappadocia. This grape produces a deliciously crisp citrusy white with a nice touch of salinity. Perfect for almost any seafood, especially oysters and mussels. It is also sometimes used in production of sparkling wines.

Narince (nah-rin-jeh): translation = “delicate”

Native to Tokat, where the Black Sea climate and continental climate meet. Ageworthy whites are made from Narince. Citrus and stone fruits dominate, along with elegant floral notes. The best of these can be matured in oak and will develop a Burgundian creaminess over time. Some excellent pairings include Gouda, mushroom risotto, rich fish dishes with white wine and herb sauces, and goat cheese based dishes for the unoaked versions.  

Sultaniye (sool-tah-nee-yeh): no translation

Grown around Izmir and Denizli, this seedless grape makes wines light in texture that are pleasant, fruity, and spicy.  Kayra makes “köpüklü” (bubbly Sultaniye) that has a hint of mulberry. The still wines are great with falafel or hummus, or with light salads.

Kalecik Karası (kah-le-jic car-ah-se): no translation

Could be native to the region around Ankara. This is Turkey’s most popular red wine grape at the moment. Previously almost extinct, the grape was revived by French and Turkish viticulturists working together. Kalecik Karası makes a structured, light-bodied wine with notes of herbs, red fruits, and chocolate reminiscent of Pinot. Some producers use oak, but this wine is also an excellent candidate for unoaked treatment. Great with grilled meats, lamb kabob, or roasted chicken.

Öküzgözü (oh-cooz-goe-zu): translation = “ox eye”

Native to the Elaziğ province near the Tigris River in Southeastern Turkey. Öküzgözü makes a well-balanced wine loaded with ripe raspberry and cherry, and is often blended with Boğazkere. This wine can age 10+ years. Excellent food wine… you can pair it with almost anything!

Boğazkere (boe-ahz-keh-reh): translation = “burning throat”

Native to the Diyarbakir province in the Mesopotamian flatland between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. It has a very dark, red garnet color and intense aromas of dried red fruits and spices. It is often combined with the softer, lighter Öküzgözü grape. Pairs nicely with grilled meats, steaks, and pasta with meat sauce.

Now you are fully equipped to get out there and try some Turkish wines. Come to The Barrel Room for a glass of Kavaklidere Yakut, a deliciously bright and easy-drinking blend of Öküzgözü and Boğazkere.

Cheers, or should I say Şerefe (shair-ef-ay)!

- Sarah