Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Dispelling the Sulfite Myth: The Truth About Red Wine Headaches



“I only drink white wine… red wine gives me headaches. It’s because I’m allergic to sulfites,” a woman told me two nights ago, with a very matter-of-fact tone. When pressed further, she alluded to more detailed information about her allergy: “I usually stick to Chardonnays from California. The French wines always give me headaches. I try to drink organic wines whenever I can… they don’t have sulfites.”
 
the suspicion-arousing phrase...

I have heard misinformed declarations such as the one above more times than I could ever count. Sulfites are one of the most misunderstood substances in the wine world. Hopefully I can shed a little light on this subject below, and offer some potential solutions to those who suffer from the dreaded RWH, or Red Wine Headaches.

First of all, sulfites should be clarified. Sulfites are any compounds containing the sulfite anion, SO32-. These include metabisulfites, which are used in the wine industry in the form of a white crystalline powder that is added to grape must and fermented wine to prevent the growth of wild microorganisms, thus increasing the stability of the wine. As a food additive, potassium metabisulfite (called E224) can be found in frozen shellfish, jams, pickles, molasses, cereals, tomato paste, most condiments, dried fruits, and fruit juices including bottled lime and lemon juice, among many other products. 
these have more sulfites than your glass of red wine!
Next, let’s talk about a few myths regarding sulfites in wine. 1) Organic is the way to go to avoid sulfites, right? Unfortunately for those trying to stay away from sulfite compounds, organic simply means “no sulfites added.” Sulfites are natural byproducts of fermentation produced by yeasts, and many organic wines contain more than 10 ppm (the limit for the required “contains sulfites” warning to be placed on a bottle of wine).  2) Don’t red wines have more sulfites than whites? Sorry again, but white wines typically contain much higher levels of sulfites. So if you find that drinking white wine allows you to consume without negative reactions, you’re wrongfully convicting sulfites as the antagonists. 3) French wines contain more sulfites that Californian wines (or vice versa according to some)… again, wrong. Wines all over the world contain sulfites. Given a range of wines from many different countries, the average sulfite content is 80 ppm, with variations depending on the producer, not the region from which the wine comes.

no sulfites "detectable"
On an important side note, “sulfite allergies” are not true allergies, but are in fact sensitivities. Allergies can only occur after exposure to allergenic proteins, which sulfites are not. People with sulfite sensitivity will experience discomfort, and sometimes very extreme reactions, if they consume any product containing certain levels of sulfites. Headaches? Absolutely not… "Sulfites can cause allergy and asthma symptoms, but they don't cause headaches," says Frederick Freitag, associate director of the Diamond Headache Clinic in Chicago and a board member of the National Headache Foundation. Sulfite sensitivity causes breathing difficulty, congestion, and at the more extreme end, anaphylaxis in the severely sensitive. Asthmatics are particularly at risk. About 4% of the population of the United States is sulfite-sensitive.

So what, then, causes the headaches many pin on red wine consumption? This is the topic of much debate, but research has indicated a few likely suspects.


Headache Suspect #1: Tannins.

tannins can be found in a wide variety of substances, including wine and tea
Tannins are plant polyphenols found in grape skins, grape seeds, stems, and wood used to make barrels in which wine is often fermented and/or aged. They are the compounds that give the mouth-drying sensation in many red wines. Tannins are natural preservatives which prevent oxidation, and they are a major component of the sediment you’ll find at the bottom of an aged red. They are found in much higher concentration in red wines than whites, though some white grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier contain a non-negligable amount. 

Tannins can bind to starches during digestion which are needed for serotonin production. For those who are sensitive to tannins, the subsequent reduction in serotonin levels can lead to migraines. If this is what happens to you when you drink red wine, oversteep some black tea and drink it… if you get a headache, odds are you’re sensitive to tannins. Stick to white wines that do not come into contact with oak. You’ll find you have many options!


Headache Suspect #2: Histamines.

Histamines are organic nitrogen compounds that are typically produced by the human body as an immune response to foreign pathogens. In wine it is produced by yeasts during fermentation, and since it is also found in grape skins, red wines that have extended skin contact during vinification will naturally be much higher in histamine contact (red wines contain 20-200% more histamine than whites). 

For those who are allergic to histamines, the combination of alcohol and histamines found in red wines may be linked to headaches. If you have severe reactions to insect bites or bee stings you might be in this group of unfortunates. Take some loratadine (Claritin) an hour before you drink red wine and see if your headache problem is eliminated… if so, you’ve found the solution! Also, drinking whites, sparkling wines, or very light rosés like those from Provence may be advised.


Headache Suspect #3: Prostaglandins

Prostaglandins are lipid compounds found throughout the human body. They act as mediators and do many important functions in animal bodies, but the one function we are most concerned with here is the regulation of contraction and relaxation of smooth muscle cells, such as those found in the walls of blood vessels. Wine contains enzymes which can suppress the functionality of these compounds, leading to unbalanced vasodilation and vasoconstriction. This can produce headaches. New studies have found that some yeasts produce prostaglandins as well, and the presence of alcohol may increase the levels produced and therefore worsen the situation.

Luckily we have prostaglandin inhibitors available in our local supermarkets and pharmacies: Ibuprofen, Advil, Tylenol, or Aspirin! Take some half an hour before you drink wine and you just might cure your headache problem.


Headache Suspect #4: Tyramine.

Tyramine is produced naturally in fermented, aged, and spoiled foods and beverages. It is a side effect of the breakdown of proteins over time. Aged cheeses, dried fruits, sauerkraut, and soy are among the products extremely high in tyramine. And so is wine. 

avoid this pairing at all costs if you're tyramine-sensitive!
If tyramine is ingested by those who are sensitive to it, a “hypertensive crisis” may result (a fancy name for elevated blood pressure). Extreme cases can be very dangerous; less severe reactions which occur in the majority of sensitive people include headaches. As Dr. Lynn Gretkowski told The Wine Spectator (May 31, 2009), “Tyramine is thought to be a vasoactive substance that causes the dilation and contraction of blood vessels - the squeezing and relaxation component of headaches.” If you think you’re tyramine sensitive, try eating some Stilton and see if you get your red wine headaches. How to avoid these? Again, Take some Aspirin or Ibuprofen half an hour before you drink your wine, and you should be headache-free (unless, of course, you drink too much!).


The bad news is that there are many potential causes for RWH. The good news is that there are ways around each one, and there are methods to test your particular affliction.

And finally, a reiteration: sulfites do not cause red wine headaches. You may be sulfite sensitive, but if you are, you should be much more concerned by toast with jam, a handful of dried apricots, or fries with ketchup than by a glass of Cabernet!

- Sarah

6 comments:

  1. Wow, thank you for the detailed explanation to clear the myth. I was discussing about sulfite with my French friends and I will pass this page on to my friends. Your blog is very informative. Keep up the good work and I hope I will visit your wine bar one day....

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  3. My wife is allergic to sulfites. Drinking wine with sulfites, or even eating food cooked with wine puts her into shock. She drinks sulfite free wine with no problems. So for her it is no myth. She became allergic to sulfites in her 40's.

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  4. My wife is allergic to sulfites. Drinking wine with sulfites, or even eating food cooked with wine puts her into shock. She drinks sulfite free wine with no problems. So for her it is no myth. She became allergic to sulfites in her 40's.

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