When California wines are the subject of conversation, most
people envision the big, bold Bordeaux blends of the Napa Valley AVA or the
intense cherry-cranberry Pinot Noirs of the Sonoma and Russian River AVAs.
Nikki recently showcased a region that defies these stereotypes: AndersonValley. Thanks to its cool climate and heavy marine influence, the area produces crisp
white and earthy red wines that we at The Barrel Room love.
However, Anderson Valley is not the only coastal fog-laden
viticultural area focusing on structured wines with precision and elegance in
California. Residing just a stone’s throw away from the high-tech haven of
Silicon Valley, the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is a little-known region that
roughly follows the fog line along the coast. Its boundaries are well defined by
elevations of 400 feet on the west side and 800 feet on the east side, and Half
Moon Bay and Mount Madonna respectively at the north and south. This AVA boasts
vineyards at elevations up to 3,200 feet… some of the highest vineyards in the
state of California.
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| Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard |
Microclimates are of utmost importance in the Santa Cruz
Mountains. On the Pacific side the elevations are lower and the climates are
cooler, and Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the varietals of interest. Zinfandel,
Merlot, and Cabernet are grown in the warmer areas but tend to produce more
restrained wines than their Napa counterparts. The cooling fog and massive
temperature deviations from morning to night maintain acidity and freshness in
the grapes and finished wines.
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| Rhys Vineyard's "Horseshoe Vineyard" |
This region has long been recognized for its potential for
fine wines. Some of California’s earliest wineries were established in the
Santa Cruz Mountains, with wine production dating back to the mid 1800's. Franciscan
missionaries planted the Mission grape in 1804 just north of the city of Santa
Cruz. By the late 1800’s the Chaine d’Or (a mountain ridge stretching from
Woodside to Los Gatos) was said to produce the finest wines in America. The
grapes grown here always commanded high prices due to their superior quality,
and still do to this day.
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| 1976 Judgment of Paris and 2006 reenactment results |
Though a huge forest fire in 1889 and Prohibition in the
1930’s stifled the area’s winemaking, innovative winemakers throughout the years like Martin Ray of
Mount Eden, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, and both previous winemaker Paul
Draper and current winemaker Eric Baugher of Ridge Vineyards have been ushering
the region out of the shadows. Ridge Vineyards was among the few California
wineries chosen to participate in the famous Judgment of Paris in 1976; Ridge’s
1971 Monte Bello Cabernet placed 5th among all reds, beating out the
1971 Leoville-las-Cases and placing just below the 1970 Haut Brion. In a 2006 reenactment the Ridge Monte Bello placed 1st overall.
Given this area’s potential for first-class wine production,
it may come as a surprise that it isn’t better known. But as appreciation for
cool-climate restrained wines grows, this region will soon shine again as one
of California’s best. You can try examples of Santa Cruz Mountain AVA wines
that we’re currently pouring at The Barrel Room: Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard’s
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (dark berries, sturdy but velvety tannins, very well
balanced) and Zayante’s 2008 Zinfandel (bright cherry and spice, great acidity,
strawberry fruit leather).
This weekend I’ll be taking a trip through the Santa Cruz
Mountains AVA. Join me next Wednesday as I discuss the wineries I visit and the
best of the wines I encounter!
- - Sarah
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